Allure (June 2015)

Attract, June 2015

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This heralded a brash new look for motorcyclists, although it proved to be just an interlude in fashion terms before punk rock made black the biker jacket colour of choice once more. ABOVE: The jacket has doublebuckle cinch straps at the waist and a café racer-style round collar. 39 40 BELSTAFF The Barbour International’s arch-rival in motorcycling circles has long been the Belstaff Trialmaster. Today the jacket has four patch pockets, but initially it shared the same ‘drunk’ left breast pocket, and was 1960s distinguishable only be being slightly longer in the body and by a few minor details.

By the 1950s, it had entered the biker clothing market with styles that defined the ‘ton up’ boys of the era – also the British ‘Rockers’ so stylistically and culturally opposed to the scooter-riding and army-surplus parka-wearing Mods. Two decades on, the company was reinventing the biker jacket in the most obvious way – by producing it not in the standard black or dark brown, but in bold hues. In 1972, one catalogue proclaimed ‘the colourful world of Lewis Leathers’. This heralded a brash new look for motorcyclists, although it proved to be just an interlude in fashion terms before punk rock made black the biker jacket colour of choice once more.

This particular example was actually made in Norfolk by tailors F. A. Stone & Sons of Norwich and Savile Row, London. NORFOLK JACKET above: Distinctive, one-button working cuff with handstitched button holes. LEFT: The belt is held in to the back of the jacket by long pleats down the back panel. 57 58 Bespoke Although smart and welltailored to modern eyes, this two-piece grey selfstripe suit was bespokemade during the 1940s specifically for rambling 1940s or hill walking. It has multiple deep pockets (with flap fastening to secure all contents); a collar buttoning to the neck; the use of a thornproof, waterresistant fabric; and trousers lacing from the calf, the better to tuck into high walking boots or to go under thick socks.

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